BEIJING
SS25'
The SS25 Beijing Collection draws deeply from the city’s rich cultural heritage and timeless traditions. Steeped in centuries of history, Beijing embodies a harmony between the past and the present, a duality mirrored throughout the collection. A restrained palette of black and white sets a neutral foundation, allowing the subtleties of craftsmanship and texture to be seen. Each detail, often overlooked at first glance, reflects the quiet beauty and hidden layers that are often unseen by visitors.
MATERIALS:
100% cotton twill →
White running stitches →
Heavy-weight. Matte black with subtle diagonal weave. Designed to soften and fade with wear, not stay pristine.
NU/VU signature motif. Derived from bamboo scaffolding grids across Beijing construction sites. The stitching makes visible what's usually hidden: structure, process, assembly.
Silver metal latches →
Metal dome rivets, evenly spaced. References the gilded door nails found on the Forbidden City palace gates. Traditional palace gates displayed studs in 9×9 arrays (81 total), the number nine representing imperial supremacy and eternity. Lower-ranking gates used 7×7 or 5×5 configurations.
Cast alloy with antiqued finish. Modeled after traditional Chinese cabinet hardware, specifically the ruyi cloud-form locks found on Ming and Qing dynasty furniture. The ruyi (如意) translates to "as you wish" and appears throughout Chinese decorative arts as a symbol of good fortune and fulfillment.
8.91mm Silver Studs →
CITY OBSERVATIONS:
Beijing.
January 2025.
-4°C / Dry cold / Coal heating season.
Morning construction starts at 6 AM.
Hutongs insulated with quilted curtains.
Workers wear layered cotton, not down.
Steam rises from street food carts, disappears fast.
Bicycles wrapped in plastic sheeting against dust.
The cold is static. The city is not.
BEIJING IMPLICATIONS:
Silver Studs
30 silver studs, 8.91mm each, arranged as "N"
Uniform pockets →
Angled welt pockets
Silver Latches
4 Silver Latches symmetrically placed
4-panel back construction
Center seam divides the back into four sections. Borrowed from Beijing construction worker jackets, allows full arm movement without the garment lifting. The center seam acts as an expansion joint, letting heavy cotton move with the body rather than pull against it.
Barrel Cuff Buttons
White running stitches
Cloisonné Jacket
Silver Studs
4 Silver Studs placed
symmetrically on
each side
Slightly tapered leg opening
Cloisonné Trousers
Stitched Round Pockets
Curved opening, hand-entry optimized. Sized for transit cards, keys, phone. Positioned at natural hand-fall when arms hang relaxed
Belt Loops
5 belt loops
Silver Latches
2 silver latches placed symmetrically
behind each knee cap position
White running stitches
Angeled Patch Pockets
MATERIALS:
Mohair Wool Blend →
34% Mohair, 34% Wool, 27% Nylon, 5% Elastane. Mohair adds sheen and durability. Wool provides warmth without weight. Nylon stabilizes the fabric and resists pilling. Elastane allows recovery,fabric returns to shape after wear. Designed for layering in 5–15°C. Natural fibers for breathability, synthetics for structure. The blend ages visibly but stays intact.
Abstracted from 山水 (shān shuǐ), traditional Chinese ink-wash landscape painting. Mountains dissolve into mist. The technique borrows from 皴法 (cūn fǎ), texture strokes used to depict rock formations and volume without light or shadow, and 湿笔 (shī bǐ), wet brush technique creating soft, flowing gradients. Black yarn represents concentrated ink. Gray represents diluted washes. Negative space (the cream base) represents unpainted silks, essential as the brushstroke itself.
Kisses Design →
BEIJING IMPLICATIONS:
Ribbed Knit Cuffs
Kisses Design:
山水 (shān shuǐ), traditional
Chinese ink-wash landscape painting.
Crew Neck Neckline
Ribbed Hem
Kisses Mohair Sweater
NU/VU logo integration
Brand name woven into mountain gradient, visible only at close range. The letterforms follow the ink-wash fade, solid black at base, dissolving into mist at the top. Logo placement is secondary to pattern. Discovered, not announced.